Friday, June 21, 2013

Simplicity Project Runway 2444

Simplicity 2444

For this dress, I finally took the time to make a muslin and am glad that I did.  I ended up cutting one size smaller than the pattern called for and still had a fair amount of fitting at shoulder and under the bust.  I took up an extra 1 1/4" from the front shoulder and an extra 5/8" in back.  Then I cut down the back of the neckline 5/8" to account for these changes (to keep the neckline from ending up too far up the back of my neck).  I also had to reshape the neck facing to fit the new neckline shape.  I enlarged the front darts under bust and took up extra material under the arms as well. I also needed to take up the waist seam at the front to correct an unattractive dip.

After the fit changes, I also lengthened the sleeve to the elbow, omitted the sash and giant bow, added a 4" hem, bound the seams, sewed down skirt pleats and omitted pockets to reduce bulk, and added thread chains for the purchased belt and bra/slip straps.
Here is my muslin.  Please forgive the Pepto Bismol print - it was $1.50/yd at Walmart.  You can see in the first two pictures that the waist dips a little in the front, creating an unattractive barrel look at the midsection.  I took up the waist seam a little between the front darts to correct this and create a straighter waist seam. You can also see the excess material at neck and the bulkiness below the belt.  Again, this I corrected by removing the side-seam pockets and sewing down the pleats.  

Here is the in-progress dress, showing my weird (but effective) front bodice darts, the skirt pleats being sewn down and the arduous process of easing the fullness out of 4" of hem on this full skirt...  Next time I will listen closer when my Mama Leah says "I don't believe I'd put a 4" hem on that full skirt..."

And here is the final dress, as modeled by my dress form Gladys.


McCalls 6303 and Vintage Simplicity 4755: Madras Sunsuits

McCalls 6303 and Vintage Simplicity 4755 c. 1950s

McCalls 6303

This sundress from McCalls seems to run a little large.  I had already decided to move the buttons from the yoke to the straps (and to round out the top of the yoke just to look nicer since it would now be on the outside) to accommodate for letting out as M grows.  I am glad that I did as this pattern ran big and I ended up taking up several inches of strap.  I was able to just tuck them under, but I did add a second button on each side to help hold them in place.  The bloomers are huge.  I did what I could with the elastic in the casings, but they are still way big.  Luckily, they cannot be seen under the dress since it is pretty long right now as well.  I did leave an opening in my casings and an extra inch or so of elastic so that I can let out the legs and waist next year.

Simplicity 4755 - 1953

I am in love with this pattern.  It was still a little big for C, but I couldn't wait until next year, so I did what I could with alterations so that she could wear it this year and, hopefully, next.  I took some tucks at the back neckline, which aren't beautiful as the neckline is pretty stiff due to a layer of gathers stuffed under the bias binding.  However, they are mostly disguised by the ruffles and the busy material. I also reduced the elastic in the bloomers and the back of the skirt.  The sash helps too and the 4" hem will allow for letting out.  This patchwork madras was a little difficult to sew precisely due to all the bumpy seams, so I gladly ditched the iron and gauge for this project and did a lot of eyeballing.  Aside from fit alterations, the only other change was to self-line the sash (vs narrow hem), as the seams on the madras would have been unattractive when visible.

 This beautiful patchwork madras was purchased from Three Chickadees Textiles